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© Richard Gonzalez

Laffrey: four lakes, four experiences

Four sapphire lakes – Laffrey, Pierre-Châtel, Pétichet and Lac Mort – dot the Matheysin Plateau, their opalescent reflections shimmering in the sun. Each lake offers a unique experience, providing a true oasis of coolness when the Grenoble valley swelters.

Relics of the Ice Age, these lakes form a striking blue line nestled between the hills and mountains of the Matheysin Plateau, just over half an hour from Grenoble. Their lush green surroundings create a delightful landscape, accessible from May to October – a perfect retreat for fresh air and a cool dip.

Steeped in history, the lakes lie along departmental road 1085, known as the Route Napoléon. This scenic route traces Napoleon’s return from exile on Elba in March 1815. On the shores of Grand Lac de Laffrey, the largest lake, stands the Prairie de la Rencontre. At this historic site, an equestrian statue marks the spot where Napoleon famously persuaded royal troops sent to arrest him to lay down their arms and join his cause. This dramatic encounter marked a key turning point in his journey back to power.

Between hills and mountains, just over half an hour from Grenoble.

Diversity à la carte

Named after the village that borders it, Grand Lac de Laffrey is the largest and most accessible of the Laffrey lakes, evoking feelings of relaxation and refreshment. Its pebble beaches at both ends create a welcoming atmosphere, making it the liveliest of the group.

In the northern part of the lake, visitors can enjoy a hub of activities: charming restaurants serve lake fish, a hotel and sailing and rowing clubs nestled under tall trees offer rentals for paddleboards, windsurfing and canoes, making it a popular destination for tourists. Nature enthusiasts can explore the Pivodière marsh, a small reserve ideal for spotting rare dragonflies.

For a different vibe, head to the Cholonge sailing club in the southern part, which hosts lively events, including its famous moules-frites (mussels and chips) nights. Whether you’re seeking adventure or tranquillity, Grand Lac de Laffrey offers an unforgettable experience.

You can also sail your own boat on the waters of Lake Laffrey.

Take the plunge

Find your secret place

In contrast, Lake Pétichet is reserved for swimming only. Its gently sloping beach is perfect for a refreshing dip, especially during the hottest hours of the day. Accessible via the restaurant Le Miradou, this lake offers a secluded atmosphere where swimmers can discover hidden spots to enjoy a few strokes. Please note that swimming is at your own risk, as there is no lifeguard on duty.

Fifty shades of blue

On Lake Pierre-Châtel, you might want to keep your towel packed as swimming is not technically allowed, a precaution taken for safety reasons.

Privately owned by the Marliave family, along with its château, the lake retains its wild and natural character. However, the Count of Marliave permits fishing in part of the lake, which is renowned for its impressive carp.

In the far south, a municipal beach, mostly covered with grass, welcomes summer visitors. The area is equipped with games for children, barbecue facilities, a pétanque court and has disabled access, making it an ideal spot for a family outing. What’s more, dogs are allowed in a specially designated area, a rare treat. The paths surrounding the site offer stunning views that subtly vary the blue hues of the lake, creating a picturesque backdrop for a memorable day out.

© Richard Gonzalez

A change of gear

The Matheysienne VTT club has mapped out over 900 km of mountain bike circuits starting from the Cordeliers campsite in Pierre-Châtel. These trails cater to all levels and moods, offering bucolic, forest and alpine routes.

Beyond mountain biking, cyclists can explore the plateau by cyclo-cross, enjoying a leisurely way to take in the scenic views from the high hills that border it to the west.

The secret to truly experiencing the beauty of these lake landscapes is by bike!

Guarded by the majestic mountain of Conest, the peaceful villages of Saint-Jean-de-Vaulx and Notre-Dame-de-Vaulx reveal their charm best when explored on two wheels. For an unforgettable cycling experience, start above the village of Laffrey and follow the winding D113 road southward through picturesque hamlets.

In summer, the evening light bathes the landscape in a golden glow, creating a magical atmosphere. Just two bends before reaching La Motte-d’Aveillans, cyclists are rewarded with a breathtaking view: the striking mineral silhouette of Mont Aiguille suddenly emerges, making every effort worthwhile.

Plan B !

A tour of the Lac Mort

If you’re looking to escape the crowds and breathe in fresh air, the discreet Lac Mort at the northern edge of the Matheysin Plateau ticks all the boxes. Access is convenient via a shaded road from Laffrey Plage or nearby car parks.

Lac Mort offers a serene walking circuit that can be completed in just over two hours. The well-signposted route winds along the lake’s shores and through dense forests of beech, fir and ash trees on its eastern bank.

Although swimming is prohibited due to the lake’s artificial nature, its surroundings are rich in natural charm. The area is particularly famous for its wild chanterelle mushrooms, adding a unique touch to your visit.

© Richard Gonzalez
© Richard Gonzalez

Practical info

71 rue de la Plage
38220 Cholonge
Getting there
Chambéry Grenoble Bourg-d'Oisans Bourgoin-Jallieu Vienne Lyon Valence Gap